The Whispered Warrior – Ernest James

Dani Stewarts, the visionary designer behind Ernest James, has long been a source of inspiration to me. Her work echoes the artistry of designers like Iris Van Herpen—an exquisite fusion of innovation and craftsmanship. Whispered Warrior, her latest collection, embodies the strength found in femininity, where delicate textures meet powerful structures.

Each garment seamlessly blends ethereal, digitally printed organza with architectural underpinnings to create a sense of floating structure. Moulded leather bodysuits and corsets serve as modern armour, accentuated by intricate 3D-printed lace, individually developed and patterned for each piece.

Creative Direction & Mood

Given the extraordinary level of detail in these garments, my approach was to showcase their artistry without visual distraction. A busy background risked diminishing the interplay between the softness of the organza and the strength of the leather and 3D elements.

Having previously seen the collection on the runway, I knew the delicate blues, purples, pinks, and whites of the fabrics would be best complemented by a pastel dreamscape. To ensure contrast and depth, I selected a model with dark hair—avoiding the risk of a blonde model blending too much into the soft colour palette.

Location

To reflect both the strength and femininity of Dani’s designs, I chose to shoot against the vast expanse of rolling sand dunes, framed by an open sky filled with soft, billowing clouds. Golden hour and blue hour provided the perfect lighting conditions—enhancing the ethereal nature of the designs while maintaining clarity in the intricate details. Shooting in harsh midday light would have risked losing the delicate textures to deep shadows and overexposure.

This location, however, posed a logistical challenge. Situated at the southernmost point of Victoria, it was a 3.5-hour drive from Melbourne and notorious for unpredictable weather conditions. I monitored the forecast closely, waiting for an ideal window. While the day began perfectly, strong winds picked up towards sunset, making conditions difficult for our model. We ensured she stayed warm between shots, wrapping her in blankets when possible. Despite these challenges, the setting proved to be worth the effort, making the long journey and 12-hour shoot day entirely worthwhile.

Aesthetic & Styling

To preserve the raw beauty of the garments and setting, styling was kept intentionally minimal. Our hair and makeup artist used soft pastel tones to subtly echo the hues of the collection, while the model’s hair remained loose to enhance the feminine, ethereal mood. She remained barefoot, and no jewellery was added to avoid any distractions from the garments’ craftsmanship.

At 5’2”, the model was shorter than anticipated, so I adjusted my shooting angles accordingly. Positioning her higher on the dunes and shooting upwards helped create the illusion of height. I also guided her to extend her legs and arms, maintaining graceful, elongated lines in every frame.

To preserve the natural beauty of the landscape, we were mindful of our footprint, avoiding unnecessary disturbance of the pristine rippled sand. The untouched dunes, expansive sky, and soft evening light all came together seamlessly, enhancing the visual poetry of the collection.

The Final Collection

Despite the weather cutting the shoot shorter than planned, the resulting images are nothing short of spectacular. Every frame captures the grandeur and artistry of the collection, transforming the garments into living works of art. This shoot is a true editorial masterpiece—more than just a fashion story, it is a visual representation of strength, beauty, and innovation.

Dani’s craftsmanship is elevated through this imagery, ensuring Whispered Warrior is not just seen, but felt.